How to fit a roller blind to a ceiling, wall or window frame

What you need

• Drill with a 6 mm bit for walls and a 3 mm bit for aluminium or wooden frames
• Spirit level and tape measure
• Pencil and masking tape
• Phillips screwdriver or drill driver
• Stable stepladder
• Cable and pipe detector (such as the Bosch GMS 120)
• Roller blind with brackets, tube and chain (IKEA TUPPLUR or SCHOTTIS, Inspire and made-to-measure blinds from Leroy Merlin)
• 6 mm nylon plugs and 3.5x30 screws (usually supplied with the blind)
• Chain tensioner or safety clip, and a break-away chain connector
• Cover caps and sealant, if you fit inside the frame
• Strong double-sided tape, only if the blind is sold as a stick-on type

Step by step

1. 1

   Decide where the blind goes

   On the ceiling is cleaner and allows blinds wider than the window; on the wall leaves the frame visible and is the most common; inside the frame gives a clean window look but needs the recess to be straight and smooth. In kitchens and bathrooms, inside the recess with a washable PVC fabric is best.

2. 2

   Measure the recess

   To fit inside the frame, measure the width at three points (top, middle and bottom) and use the smaller measurement; the blind should be 1-1.5 cm narrower. To fit on the wall, add 5 cm each side to the width of the recess so light does not leak in. Measure the height from where the tube will go to the windowsill.

3. 3

   Choose the chain side and the fabric roll direction

   The chain can go on the right or the left, and sits on the side furthest from where people walk to avoid tugs. The fabric can drop from the front of the roll (it hangs close to the glass) or from the back. If the window opens inwards, a front roll is better so it does not catch the sash.

4. 4

   Mark the bracket positions

   Place the brackets at the ends and mark the holes with the level resting on them. Keep a distance of 1.5-2 cm from the tube edge so it turns freely. On a wall or ceiling, use masking tape to mark the line so the pencil does not slip.

5. 5

   Detect pipes and cables

   If you are fitting to the ceiling or to the wall above the window, pass the detector over the area. In an aluminium window frame, do not drill on the hinge side or in the rubber channel of the sash; fix only to the top rail.

6. 6

   Drill and insert the plugs

   In concrete or solid brick, 6 mm bit with hammer action and a nylon plug; in hollow brick, without hammer action. In a wooden or PVC frame, a 3 mm bit and a screw straight in. In plasterboard, screw into a stud or use a metal cavity fixing (Fischer GKM) for blinds under 3 kg.

7. 7

   Screw on the brackets

   Screw each bracket on with the plate sitting flat. Check with the level that both are at the same height. If the bracket has a safety tab or clip, check that it is facing the right way to take the tube.

8. 8

   Clip in the tube

   Tilt the blind and seat the end without the chain (the pin end) in its bracket first. Then push the chain side in until you hear a click. Some models go the other way round: follow the manufacturer's manual. Lower and raise it a few times to check the fabric rolls up straight; if it wanders to one side, take the blind off and re-roll the fabric with the masking tape aligned.

9. 9

   Fit the chain safety device

   Fix the chain tensioner to the wall or frame with a screw so the chain is taut and does not form a loop. Put the tensioner as high as possible, always more than 1.5 m above the floor. Add the break-away connector if the kit includes one. If there is a cot or a child's bed, do not put it under the window or next to the chain.

10. 10

    Check the travel, height and stop

    Lower the fabric to its stop and raise it fully. Adjust with the chain stops so it does not over-roll. Leave 2 to 3 cm of air between the fabric and the glass so it does not stick through condensation.

How to fit a roller blind: type and mounting position

A roller blind is a fabric mounted on a tube, worked by a continuous chain, a cord or a motor. It is sold in three main finishes: translucent, which filters light; opaque or blackout, which darkens completely; and screen (ecran), which reduces heat and lets you see outside. In coastal homes, a screen blind in the living room and a blackout in the bedroom is the most popular combination.

There are three ways to fit them. On the ceiling, with brackets in the slab, suits large blinds or hiding a roller shutter box. On the wall, over the recess, is the classic mounting that covers 5 cm each side. Inside the frame, the blind sits in the recess and needs a precise measurement (1 cm less in width). Blinds that need no drilling, with clips for aluminium or PVC frames or with adhesive, exist for tilt-and-turn windows and suit light fabrics, though they stand up less well to daily use.

Safety with chains and children

Blind chains and cords are a real strangulation risk for small children. That is why the standard UNE-EN 13120, on interior blinds, requires blinds to include safety devices and warnings, and UNE-EN 16434 sets out the requirements for safety devices for chains and cords. Check that your blind carries a label with the standard and that it includes the tensioner or the break-away connector.

At home, keep the chain taut, fixed to the wall or the frame with the tensioner, and more than 1.5 m above the floor. Do not put cots, beds or climbable furniture under the window. If there are small children, a blind with a motor and remote control (IKEA FYRTUR, for example) avoids the chain altogether.

Common mistakes when fitting a blind

• Measuring at only one point. Recesses are not straight; measure at the top, the middle and the bottom.
• Fixing the brackets without a level. A millimetre of difference makes the blind wander to one side and the fabric crease.
• Fitting without a chain tensioner. Without it, the chain forms a loop and is a risk for children and pets.
• Forgetting the shutter box clearance. If the blind hits the box or the sash when it opens, change it from wall to ceiling mounting.
• Drilling the frame on the hinge side. You can damage the sash or the opening hardware.
• Leaving the blind touching the glass. Condensation stains the fabric; leave 2-3 cm of air.

When to call a professional

It is worth hiring the installation if the blind is large (over 2 m wide), if it has to be fixed to a concrete ceiling, if the wall is plasterboard or hollow brick, if there are several windows, or if you want a motorised blind. Also if you have no drill or stepladder, or if it is a home with children and you want the chain properly fixed and at the right height.

At Manitas Costa blind rails and poles are fitted for €35-55 (curtain pole fitted), and any additional work is charged by the hour: first hour €35-45 and following hours €28-35. Fixed price on WhatsApp with a photo and measurements, payment when finished and a 6-month guarantee on labour. See the TV, picture and light hanging service and handyman hourly rates.

For other related guides: how to take down a roller blind, how to hang curtains and curtain poles and how to anchor furniture to the wall. We cover Valencia, Alicante and Benidorm.

Sun, damp and community rules

On the Costa Blanca and in Valencia, a screen or blackout blind on a west-facing window brings down the temperature of the living room and protects the floor and furniture from the sun. In kitchens and bathrooms, damp makes fabric blinds absorb smells; choose washable PVC or polyester with plastic or aluminium brackets, which do not rust.

If the blind is visible from the facade, some communities ask for blinds or outside curtains to be a uniform colour (white or cream) for appearance. Check the statutes if it is the balcony of a protected facade. Inside the home there is no limit, but drilling into ceilings shared with the upstairs neighbour should be done within the hours the comunidad de vecinos (residents' association) allows.